Imagine this.
You finally embark on your long-awaited honeymoon with your wife after many, many, MANY months of delays thanks to our old pal, global pandemic. You’ve spent thousands of dollars and dozens of hours planning your dream vacation to Italy. Following a dozen-hour, light beer-filled flight, you arrive at your incredible Roman hotel where you are serenaded by the intoxicating, authentic Italian accent of the concierge. You have arrived!
Naturally, one of the first things you want to do is visit a beautiful European beach, strap on a skimpy European bathing suit, suck down on some delicious Aperol spritzes, and let all your worries blow away with the refreshing Italian breeze.
And that’s exactly what a lot of people did.
My wife, Liz, and I went to the beach, too. Or at least close to it. Like a few miles…er…kilometers away from one. Okay, fine, we went to a cemetery. Because nothing helps a blossoming young marriage come to life like visiting a spot with a bunch of dead guys in it. Right? You betcha!
We weren’t visiting it out of some morbid fascination with true crime (even though we have one). And this was no ordinary cemetery packed with your everyday stiffs. This was the Sicily-Rome American Cemetery serving as the eternal resting place for 7,845 American soldiers, sailors, and airmen who fought and died in the Italian campaign during World War II.
On the morning of our adventure, we woke up to a beautiful Roman day. Bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, we arose with enthusiasm, brushed out teeth, and put on our outfits for the day. I donned some gear honoring my Great Uncle Emil – whose unit fought in the Italian campaign during WWII (though he joined the unit in France) – wearing a 36th Infantry Division t-shirt and Emil’s dogtag chain. With Liz looking fine and me looking…well looking like something…we headed towards the train station.
After a pleasant train ride from Rome, we first hopped off on the infamous town of Anzio. The Battle of Anzio was a brutal engagement that ultimately ended in victory for the Allies, but at great and unnecessary costs in lives largely due to poor leadership from General Mark Clark. What can I say? You just can’t trust a dude named Mark!
Leaving the train station, we encountered what felt like a battlefield of our very own. Dozens of wild-eyed, middle-school-aged kids rushed to enjoy the beach while smokin’ more heaters than an average GI during WWII. We only barely survived the attack!
From there, we visited a small, yet impactful museum dedicated to the battle. You could sense the pride and excitement from the two Italian gentlemen running the museum. They enthusiastically greeted each visitor and offered up any help we may need while touring the facility. The little space was jam-packed with everything from uniforms, beat up old weapons, photographs, medals, and more. After exploring the exhibits, the proprietor gathered up the seven or so patrons and proudly played a short documentary on the campaign using a beat-up old projector. It wasn’t exactly Oscar-worthy, but there was a lot of love put into it, and I greatly enjoyed watching it.
After completing our museum excursion, we went next door and scarfed down some rations (sandwiches and Peroni beers), put on our field packs (an orange, purse-like satchel) and set out on our march (one train stop over plus a sweaty walk) towards our objective (graveyard).
Along the short train ride to our next stop of Nettuno – home to the cemetery we sought – we caught a breathtaking view of the beach. Where this was once the site of tens of thousands of invading Allied soldiers, it was now the picturesque destination of pure relaxation for vacation-goers. And as we exited the train at our stop, we did an about face to head in the exact opposite direction of this blissfully beautiful beach.
As we walked north, we didn’t see anything quite noteworthy. It seemed to blend in with the rest of the beach town views we’d become accustomed to throughout the day – apartment buildings, shops, pedestrians, children smoking, etc. You would have never guessed that a massive memorial to a globe-changing war would be just around the corner. But as I soon came to realize, Italy always has a way of surprising you – mostly in the best ways possible.
Closing in on where our iPhone map told us the cemetery was, I caught a glimpse of something that made me smile. A street sign indicating that a baseball stadium – or stadio baseball – was off to our right. I took a look down the road in the direction of the stadium and let my thoughts temporarily drift back across the pond to my beloved baseball team – Go ‘Neds!
Then I looked left. And there it was. In the middle of this seemingly typical neighborhood was a spectacular entrance to a 77-acre plot dedicated to fallen American soldiers who helped liberate Italy.
We entered through the beautiful front gate and passed sharply dressed and impressive looking security guards who greeted us with a friendly nod and a “Buongiarno.” The first thing you see upon entering is a large water feature – a reflecting pool – with multiple fountain spouts and a little island with a memorial structure in the middle. What struck me was the color of the water. It had a brownish red, almost blood-looking color to it. Having Googled pictures of the memorial cemetery, I noted that the water in this feature is typically clear, blue, and beautiful. Whether the water was just dirty from a busted filter or possibly they were dyeing it red in honor of the upcoming Memorial Day, the symbolism in its blood-red tint wasn’t lost on me.
After seeing the fountain, I could feel goosebumps on my arm begin to tingle. But once we walked around the fountain to the right, and I saw the rows of American crosses and Stars of David for the first time, those goosebump tingles transformed into full on vibrations of pure awe.
Pausing to take in a wide view of the cemetery and its rows and rows and rows (and rows) of grave markers, I realized I had never before seen such a beautifully manicured plot of land. The grass was immaculately cut and cared for. Everything from the gravestones, bushes, trees, and flag poles, were perfectly spaced and unbelievably well kept. I mean perfect! Hell, even the trash receptacles looked inviting enough to dig through.
The entire cemetery seemed as if it were protected by a shield of remarkable calm. After witnessing all the hustle and bustle of Rome and the fun rowdiness in the towns we traveled through to get to the memorial, experiencing this sudden transition in atmosphere was very impactful.
Approaching the nearest row of crosses and Stars of David, I could feel the softness of the grass. It seemed cozier than most any bed I’d ever slept on. I found this very appropriate, given how violently these men died, they deserve a spot to eternally lay so peacefully. For the record, didn’t actually lie on the grass, out of respect and all…but it was tempting.
I would be lying if I said I didn’t feel downright emotional at this part of our visit. My chest became noticeably tighter. It became harder to breathe – as if I had just walked from a heated house out into sub-zero weather. And I felt tears welling up in my eyes. I had no personal connection to any of fallen, but after all these years of fascination with learning about the deeds of these men and women, I felt an emotional connection – as if meeting my personal heroes for the first time. Because, to me, that’s exactly who these people were.
Gathering myself and wrangling my emotions, I continued towards the markers. Etched in each gravestone was the name, rank, unit, home state, and date of death for each individual. Nearly 500 of these graves housed the remains for unknown servicemembers – typically the bodies of those who were too mangled to identify. The etched inscriptions on these crosses read the following – “Here rests in honored glory a comrade in arms known but to God.”
I walked up the first cross to inspect it closely. Reading the name, I couldn’t help but smile. It just so happened to be “Miller,” which was the name of Tom Hanks character in Saving Private Ryan – the movie that kickstarted my lifelong passion for this subject.
I felt a little ashamed and morbid for smiling in front of grave just because this very real person shared the name of a fictional character I admired. So, I took a picture of Private First Class Edward J. Miller’s marker and promised myself to investigate this very real person’s past to see what I could learn about him. I did the same for many crosses and Stars of David I saw that day with the same idea in mind.
I slowly made my way through the many rows in this particular plot (Plot B), reading the gravestones as I passed by and giving thought to many questions about who these servicemembers were during their brief time on earth. What was his personality like? Was he funny? What did he look like? Did he have a sweetheart back home? How did he die? What was the last thought that went through his head? My little stroll was both fascinating and sobering.
After patrolling almost every corner of Plot B (1 of 10 plots), we realized it would take all day, and probably most of the next day, to explore every plot thoroughly. Though it would have been great to have the time to see and pay honor to every gravesite there, we had to get back to honeymoonin’ amongst the living at some point.
From Plot B, we walked to the rear of the cemetery where they erected a large memorial structure. Out front, were two flags waving beautifully in unison – one Italian and one American.
Naturally, it wouldn’t truly be an Italian curated memorial if they didn’t have at least a few expertly crafted works of art to put on display. And this memorial didn’t disappoint.
The first room we entered in the memorial was the Map Room. I’m not sure how often a collection of maps would be described as breathtaking, but this room earned that title. From a painted mural depicting the invasion at Anzio on the wall to a scale model of the entire Mediterranean campaign, each told the story of various sites and battles throughout the fight for Italy. Each piece was accompanied by inscriptions with interesting factoids that informed the reader of the “hows”, “whys”, and “whos” that made each engagement significant.
After studying the Map Room with fascination, we then entered the Chapel. In the center is an altar piece crafted from white and golden marble. Carved in the tablet atop the altar is the archangel Michael sheathing his sword while four archangels below him declare victory. Beneath this visual is the inscription – PEACE ON EARTH GOOD WILL AMONG MEN. On the other side of the tablet is a carved representation of the Angel of Peace.
Surrounding the altar on all sides was yet another sobering site. The panels of the interior walls are filled with the names of 3,095 servicemen and women who went missing in action during the campaign. It goes without saying that it would be devastating to know of a loved one who died during the war, but I can’t imagine the mental anguish you’d suffer with never knowing their fate.
The 22-foot in diameter ceiling dome sculpture is complex, striking, and packed with symbolism. Zodiac signs represent the constellations as points of light. Mars and Jupiter occupy the same relative positions they would have been in at 2:00am on January 22, 1944 – the very moment Allied forces landed at Anzio. Perhaps this immaculate piece residing above the names on the wall panels serve to guide these missing heroes to the heavens.
Leaving the chapel, we exited the enclosed part of the building into the peristyle – a courtyard surrounded by columns or some such…hell, I don’t know, I had to Google the word, too. Anyways, this courtyard area was all done up for an annual celebration. We were fortunate enough to be visiting close to a special time – Memorial Day (the American one). Still honoring the sacrifices of Allied soldiers made nearly 80 years ago, the Italians spare no effort to celebrate the ones who helped liberate their country.
We were technically there the day before Memorial Day, so they were still setting everything up. Rows of chairs were neatly lined up for visitors to listen to presentations. Wreaths from different organizations that support the memorial (and the overall memory of those who sacrificed so much) added color to an already beautiful setting. Multiple display boards highlighting individual stories of Allied servicemembers in Italy were proudly erected for viewers to indulge in additional learning. Lastly, small Italian and American flags were carefully placed before each gravestone.
With little time left before we had to catch a train back home to Rome, we embarked on the final leg of our self-guided tour towards the visitor center. Naturally, we took a roundabout route with a little detour through another grave plot to repeat my earlier activities of strolling and snapping pictures.
Entering the visitor center, you could instantly tell a lot of thought went into this small but mighty museum. It was immaculately designed, modern, and packed full of interesting stuff. It included neat displays with military equipment and artifacts – from helmets to hand grenades (deactivated hand grenades of course). It was covered with dozens of panels about the campaign in Italy – describing the bird’s eye view battles and individual soldier’s stories. They even offered up fun little side notes to the war, such as how the GIs introduced baseball to Italy – probably no coincidence there is a stadium near the cemetery.
Among the information on the panels, they took great care to highlight the often-overlooked heroes of the war – African Americans, Native Americans, Japanese Americans, and other important groups in American culture who were shown unjust prejudice before, during, and after their service. These folks represented some of the bravest, most dedicated, most highly decorated members of armed forces, and these memorials help preserve proof of their noble deeds.
Among the bravest of the brave, 17 female servicemembers are buried in the cemetery. Serving in non-combat roles – mostly medically related – these courageous women never shied away from putting themselves into harm’s way to help their fellow countrymen. Throughout the entire cemetery complex, multiple displays celebrated their accomplishments.
One of the most heartwarming things we witnessed during our entire visit, was observing a few other visitors. A small group of Danish teenagers (at least we think they were Danish) carefully examined everything in the museum with absolute awe and respect. We even noticed they wrote a long, thankful note in the visitor’s book. I’m sure the spirits of the fallen servicemembers resting in the cemetery would greatly appreciate the fact that their sacrifices are still being honored by a generation so far removed from their own.
Knowing it was time to head out, we left the visitor center and exited through the beautiful entrance gate – leaving the peaceful dome of rest and re-entering the vibrant life of Italy.
Our visit to the Sicily-Rome American Cemetery was simply spectacular. To the Italians, I applaud you (with a standing ovation) for erecting and preserving such an impressive memorial. It left a profound impact on me, and I look forward to visiting other such memorial sites throughout Europe in the future.
To the fallen Americans who now rest in this place – infantrymen, Rangers, paratroopers, artillerymen, airmen, sailors, coast guardsmen, Jews, gentiles, believers, atheists, agnostics – you are my heroes.
Regardless of their military designation, background, religious or political beliefs, the deeds they performed – or did not perform – they all shared one common trait. The simple fact is they were there and put themselves in harm’s way. Whether they were drafted into service or volunteered is irrelevant. They were there, pursuing a cause to rid the world of one of – if not the worst – tyranny it had ever witnessed. They gave their lives for that cause. Because of that, they should be forever celebrated, honored, and remembered. And until I find myself in a grave, I plan on doing just that.
Oh, and don’t worry, Liz and I did in fact make it to the beach.
Shout out to https://www.abmc.gov/Sicily-Rome as an irreplaceable reference for additional information about the cemetery and memorial!